San Anton

16/7 27 km
Left Azofra and started climbing. Reached Santo de Mingo de la Calzada an old medieval city filled with convents. Went on till I got to Grañon. Decided to go on some more and met a nice Italian couple, Nadia and Davido. Walked with them till Redicilla del Camino, entering the third county of the Camino. There we went to an alberge which you give a donation as your choice to stay there. The Italian couple met with the rest of the group they were walking with, people they met on the way. Had a nice dinner and went to sleep.

17/7 24 km
Woke up and started walking with the group. There was a church built inside a mountain in Tosantos. We wanted to get inside, but the road was blocked due to rock slides. Went on to Vilafranca-Mortes de Oca. Saw Ares again, 28 year old picture arranger from Barcelona. Bout some cheese. Had dinner with the group and Ares, headed up making "Ptitim" (does anybody know the name in English?) which they LOVED :) Davido had a bad knee, so he and Nadia decided they're going to Burgos to see a doctor.

18/7 40 km
Started walking alone. Met two German girls from before. We were all impressed to see the sun rise for the first time since we started the Camino (at about 7am, till then it was too cloudy). Had a nice change in the view, from vineyards to pine tree forest. Ate some cheese and choriso with Ares and continued walking to Cardeñuela-Riopio. It was hot as hell. As I got there, I found out there was no alburge. The group were also there with the same problem. We ate and had a siesta at a bar nearby and continued another 15 km to Burgos. Walked mainly in the city and industrial areas. As we reached the cathedral, two Spanish guys from the group said they knew a short cut to the alberge. It took us almost an hour. We met Nadia and Davido who had to rest for a few days, and if that doesn't work, an operation. Went straight to bed.

19/7 11 km
Had a rest day. Went with Nadia, Davido and Frank, a German cargo ship captain to see the cathedral (only 10 minutes from the alberge). It was beautiful. They all left for León (about 200 km ahead) because they're short on time and the next part should be a bit boring. I walked a bit to Rabé de las Calzadas to a privet alberge. Apparently the owners, Michel and Santiago, are VERY in to the Camino. He marks the way with the famous yellow arrows, and she is part of the Camino comity. They had a huge room filled with Camino maps and books and maps and books and shells and anything linked to the Camino I was almost alone in that place until an Italian guy came. Michel treated my blisters and made us a great dinner. We went to bed early and had a room of 8 all to ourselves. Luckily the Italian guy didn't snore :)

20/7 25 km
I was thinking of going to San Anton. Michel said it's not a good place because there are no facilities. Piero, the Italian guy, said it's his second Camino, and that he met a guy my age who slept there had a great time. I walked to San Anton, and although I had enough energy to the next 3 km to the city, I've decided to stay and sleep at the ruins of the 16th century church. There were no hot water. The bathroom kitchen and beds were all in the ruins under a wooden roof. But the place was simply magical! We were only 5 pilgrims that night with one Mexican volunteer and it was the greatest place I've been so far. The atmosphere was just amazing. I can't describe it in words. I hope some pictures I'll send soon could do that.

21/7 23 km
Woke up late (7:30) had breakfast with those wonderful people, and started walking. I don't understand why they say this part is boring. There are endless fields of wheat. And once you climb to a high point, it's just breathtaking. Walked with a nice catholic nurse named Ruth (28). On the way there were two volunteered refreshing parts. Got to an alberge with a pool at Boa Dilla del Camino. quiet a different relaxation from the last night

Walked 344 km. Only 420 to go.
Buen Camino

Azofra

14/7 19.5 km
Started walking to Loñro. Another big city. Had a really nice old place in it. Got to Nevereta at about 13:30, the albergus opened only at 14:30. Talked to some people on the Camino to pass the time. Went to a church while it was empty. REALLY creepy. It´s all dark with creaking wooden floor and martyrs statues looking at you from everywhere. Those churches are HUGE with HUGE golden alters at the end. Very different from back home. Give you the feeling of "FEAR ME, GOD O MIGHTY!". Much less inviting than the synagogue back home. Took a few pictures inside, upload them when I can.
Had quite a lot to drink at dinner. A third of a bottle of wine, made me sleep well enough altho the snoring :)

15/7 22 km
Started walking early with everyone because we had to get out before 8. Half of the road was near a highway so it wasn´t very nice, but I took a detour that added only 0.5 km and ate breakfast at a place called Ventos. I´ve seen a snake on the road after a while, green with a black stripe on its back. Almost hit it with my walking sticks, but it hid in the bushes.
Met two seminarestic catholic priests from the US on the way. They were nice, but it did feel a bit weird.
After passing Najera, I came to Azofra, a small town with a really great alberguse. Only 2 people in a room (rather than 12 or more I got used to) and a nice small pool for relaxing your feet. That was the best thing I had in days. Met the American family again. Really nice people, they hooked me up with a few guys:
Jan-Klod - a 61 year old Canadian from Quebec. A good cook, real smart guy, and very funny. He's like the dad of the group.
Marcos - 20 year old German, a really nice guy that offered me to join their little group.
Andre - 24 year old Austrian. Likes to drink, also going to study electronic engineering, usually a vegetarian (but not on the Camino)
Together we had a drink, bought some food, ate dinner (rice salad and beans with meat) and had a lot of laughs and discussions about life.
I´m having breakfast with them tomorrow, and maybe walk with them for a while.
In my room, there´s an old French dude who snores like a construction site. Probably a good time to mention I bought ear plugs for nights like these, only I seem to always wake up in the middle of the night with them in my hands :)
I hope I drank enough today to fall asleep anyway like yesterday :)
I hope he doesn´t snore too loud. God, please don´t make him snore too loud.

Did 198 km, only 566 to go :)

Viana

I was woken up by not so considered people at 6 am, got organized and started walking.

After an hour and a half, got to Sonor which is 6.9 km from Los Acros. Till that point it was a nice cool day, but my luck had ended. It started raining...

Got to Viana at 12 and it became sunny again. My watch said I can make it to the next alberges 9 km away. But my feet said no. So I went to the alberges and slept for a few hours.

The city is beautiful, it´s like it was build inside a castle. There's a beautiful church here (pictures!) and it´s even prettier from inside. It´s all painted in gold!

So, I´ve walked 147 km, only 609 to go...

Buen camino!

Los Arcos

11/7

We started walking towards Villajara, and we've reached Estella after doing 9 km in just over 3 hours. Limor stated filling pain in her chest, so we went to the hospital for her to get checked. After some tests and X-rays, the doctor said she´s OK, but she shouldn't lift heavy weights (like her bag) any more. So we took a nice hotel and rested for the day.

12/7

Woke up at 5 so Limor could take the first bus to Pamplona. She'll go to Barcelona for a few days and then back to Israel. It was sad saying goodbye, but I'm sure she'll have a great time in Barcelona. I'm so proud of her holding up so far.

After the bus left, I've started walking. Just out of Estella is a fountain called Bodegas Irache. The weird thing about it, is that instead of water, it pours wine!

The wine fountain in Bodegas Irache

Not good wine, though.

I saw Ian there. His girlfriend Tesa went to teach English, so he´s alone too.

I'm at Los Arcos now, at a really nice albergus. Has a nice "ZOLA".

Met a nice family from the US (parents and one girl)

I've walked fast now that I´m alone. 21 km in 5.5 hours

There's a saying on one of the walls:

"It's not the length of the journey

It's the speed that will kill you"

So, I'm trying not to walk too much, now that I'm alone.

Just a bit more about the bulls.

It's like a national sport here. Bigger than football!

All the day they keep on showing the bull-run over and over again, especially the parts where people get injured (and they do...). And the hole thing is just 5 minuets!

And at night, people fill up pubs and watch the bull fighters on TV. And cheer!

This whole thing is really strange, like a modern gladiator war.

Limor, I love you very much.

I'm so proud of you.

Buen Camino!

P.s.

It got cold and started raining these past two days, but only when I´m done walking.

How convenient :)

San Fermin

6/7

We had a day descending from Roncesvals to Zubiri. Limor's backpack's back system broke above the left shoulder. It was hard for her and we arrived to the Albegues late. Since there was only one bed left, we took a room in a pension nearby. It was not expensive at all.

We've met two American guys, one I think was in the marines or something, whom walked from Orisson (near St. Jean) to Zubiri in one day! (42 km)

7/7

We started late because our laundry was still wet and we suffered from bad cranks.

Limor almost went back home, but decided to give it a second chance. We've arrived to Arre just near to Pamplona.

8/7

We spent most of the day in Pamplona, Watching the festival. I've missed the bull run, but I might go tomorrow with a guy from Mexico. The festival was very nice, lots of drunk people, and everybody is dressed in white with red bandannas and scarfs. After enjoying the fiesta, we walked just outside of Pamplona to Cizur Minor. We've met a nice Mexican guy named Dago. He's very useful since he speaks good Spanish and English.

9/7

I went with Dago early in the morning to Pamplona by bus to see the bull run. I managed to find a place right at the front of the second barrier (as close as you can get without actually running or being an organizer). It was very short, but very exciting. I took a video of the run, but It´s hard to see the bulls 'cause they're surrounded by people. But if you look closely in slow motion, you´ll find them.

I caught up with Limor and we walked a decent 22 km to Puente la Riena, cooked dinner with Dago and met another Israeli couple on the road, Orna and Noam.

10/7

It´s a really hot day. Walked only 13 km. Hope will start earlier tomorrow and walk more.

Roncesvales

After a H-A-R-D day of walking 27 km, 22 of them up hill 1200m, and accidentally taking the harder way at the end through the forest, we have arrived to Roncesvales.

It was very hard, Limor almost didn't make it, but we got here in the end.

The scenery was SO beautiful, lots and lots of green, but most of the time we were in a cloud.

It was raining in the cloud, and you couldn't see more than 5 m ahead.

People are vary friendly here. Helped us allot.

We met a nice couple from Britain, who woke up this morning from an alarm cat. Yes, you've read right. It just jumped on a poor bed :)

tomorrow we´ll probably go 22 km.

buen camino

St. Jean Pied De Port

We've arrived to St. Jean Pied De Port this noon after taking an early morning flight to Barcelona, a night bus to Pamplona, a morning bus to Roncesvales , and split a taxi with 8 more pilgrims to cross the border to St. Jean. We're quite tired since we haven't slept much, but we'll start the Camino tomorrow after a good night's sleep.

This place is beautiful. Like a medieval reserve in a middle of a countryside. Everything is so green!

miss you all allot.

Bouen Camino