24 ביולי 2008

Mansilla de las Mulas

22/7
I´ve walked mainly in endless fields of white. There was a small part of sunflowers that was a refreshing change. I´ve started walking near a water channel. I stopped at Villovieco and went to a church there. A guy named Pepe showed me the place and tried to explain some things in Spanish. Later he invited me to coffee at his place and I had some fruits, nuts and bisects too. It´s amazing the hospitality pilgrims get here. He showed me his house and all the things he made there. The place was just beautiful. I made it to Corrión and slept in am old school run by nuns. The place was OK. I met Aleix again (it´s pronounced A-le-ysh) and made "Ptitim" in a microwave with him. I tried to sleep that night, but 4 guys had a snoring contest, so I took my sleeping bag and a blanket and slept outside in the school yard on a bench. I also didn´t find my flashlight in the morning, but the only time I needed it was to find the flashlight.

23/7
Most of the day was just a long straits walk (17.2 km) in endless fields of wheat without any shade. And it was hot. The last 200m were downhill, and suddenly you see a small village with millions of sunflowers. I had a non alcoholic beer at the bar. The bartender asked me if I was Arabic, I said I'm from Israel. Apparently I look Arabic. The bartender was from Morocco. He was very nice, but we talked about politics and then I decided it bums me down, so I left. I had a bit of a nose bleed for some time now, but it seemed to stop at the bar. The rest of the way was without any shadow, but we saw they were planting trees near the road. They really put a lot of effort in the Camino. We got to Ledigos, and I was thinking of going on to the next town (3 km) but I had difficulties calculating the distance, so I stayed. After a shower and laundry, I sat with Ruth, a 28 old Catholic nurse, and Aleix for lunch. Suddenly, from a hot day it became cloudy and it started to rain (but light rain). I had a siesta, went online to post some pictures and made dinner with Roth (Beans from a can and some pasta with cheese and apple). I had a very good night's sleep.

24/7
Crossed another county. Not too much scenery, most of the way near a road. Visited a small church in Sahgún and went on to Barcianos del Camino. I met two nice guys from Barcelona, Petro and Pedro. They shared with me their lunch, green bean salad and a peach. Really nice guys. Had a siesta (a really brilliant invention) and woke up to the sound of some nuns playing on a guitar and a flute singing some praises to the lord or something. I helped making dinner for the albergue (41 people eating together). Everyone left for mass and I was alone in the albergue with only a few people making dinner. The dinner was great (salad, pasta, and melon for desert). Afterwards there was the Pilgrims blessing. I went to see out of curiosity, just see and not participate. It was more religious than I expected. Petro saw that I was feeling uncomfortable and helped me out without getting blessed by the preacher. I felt really bad afterwards. Like I did something very wrong. I´m not going to any more ceremonies.

25/7
I slept with new ear plugs I bought that morning. They were very good. Too good. Woke up only at 7:05. Had a good breakfast at the kitchen (coffee, bread, jam and biscuits) and started walking at about 8. I cough up with a German woman named Ortrut who I saw in the albergues the last two days. We had a really nice chat and walked almost 15 km without a break. We got to a small town with a really nice bar. It had 50´s and 60´s rock´n'roll songs. Mom would have loved the place. Had a totilla for lunch (an omelet with potatoes in it) and went on to Mansilla de las Mulas. The place looks very decorative, maybe theirs a Fiesta for Santiago´s day (today!).

Did some calculations. And I´ll probably reach Santiago at 08/08/08.
I also walked 444 km till now. Only 320 km more.
New pictures!

Buen camino!

23 ביולי 2008

21 ביולי 2008

San Anton

16/7 27 km
Left Azofra and started climbing. Reached Santo de Mingo de la Calzada an old medieval city filled with convents. Went on till I got to Grañon. Decided to go on some more and met a nice Italian couple, Nadia and Davido. Walked with them till Redicilla del Camino, entering the third county of the Camino. There we went to an alberge which you give a donation as your choice to stay there. The Italian couple met with the rest of the group they were walking with, people they met on the way. Had a nice dinner and went to sleep.

17/7 24 km
Woke up and started walking with the group. There was a church built inside a mountain in Tosantos. We wanted to get inside, but the road was blocked due to rock slides. Went on to Vilafranca-Mortes de Oca. Saw Ares again, 28 year old picture arranger from Barcelona. Bout some cheese. Had dinner with the group and Ares, headed up making "Ptitim" (does anybody know the name in English?) which they LOVED :) Davido had a bad knee, so he and Nadia decided they're going to Burgos to see a doctor.

18/7 40 km
Started walking alone. Met two German girls from before. We were all impressed to see the sun rise for the first time since we started the Camino (at about 7am, till then it was too cloudy). Had a nice change in the view, from vineyards to pine tree forest. Ate some cheese and choriso with Ares and continued walking to Cardeñuela-Riopio. It was hot as hell. As I got there, I found out there was no alburge. The group were also there with the same problem. We ate and had a siesta at a bar nearby and continued another 15 km to Burgos. Walked mainly in the city and industrial areas. As we reached the cathedral, two Spanish guys from the group said they knew a short cut to the alberge. It took us almost an hour. We met Nadia and Davido who had to rest for a few days, and if that doesn't work, an operation. Went straight to bed.

19/7 11 km
Had a rest day. Went with Nadia, Davido and Frank, a German cargo ship captain to see the cathedral (only 10 minutes from the alberge). It was beautiful. They all left for León (about 200 km ahead) because they're short on time and the next part should be a bit boring. I walked a bit to Rabé de las Calzadas to a privet alberge. Apparently the owners, Michel and Santiago, are VERY in to the Camino. He marks the way with the famous yellow arrows, and she is part of the Camino comity. They had a huge room filled with Camino maps and books and maps and books and shells and anything linked to the Camino I was almost alone in that place until an Italian guy came. Michel treated my blisters and made us a great dinner. We went to bed early and had a room of 8 all to ourselves. Luckily the Italian guy didn't snore :)

20/7 25 km
I was thinking of going to San Anton. Michel said it's not a good place because there are no facilities. Piero, the Italian guy, said it's his second Camino, and that he met a guy my age who slept there had a great time. I walked to San Anton, and although I had enough energy to the next 3 km to the city, I've decided to stay and sleep at the ruins of the 16th century church. There were no hot water. The bathroom kitchen and beds were all in the ruins under a wooden roof. But the place was simply magical! We were only 5 pilgrims that night with one Mexican volunteer and it was the greatest place I've been so far. The atmosphere was just amazing. I can't describe it in words. I hope some pictures I'll send soon could do that.

21/7 23 km
Woke up late (7:30) had breakfast with those wonderful people, and started walking. I don't understand why they say this part is boring. There are endless fields of wheat. And once you climb to a high point, it's just breathtaking. Walked with a nice catholic nurse named Ruth (28). On the way there were two volunteered refreshing parts. Got to an alberge with a pool at Boa Dilla del Camino. quiet a different relaxation from the last night

Walked 344 km. Only 420 to go.
Buen Camino