12 באוג׳ 2008

Finisterre

6/8 (part 2)
Made it to the albergue at 12:30. There was a huge line. I waited for the place to open, and after 30 minutes I found out there was a different line for that (had a few people pass me). I waited more than 2 hours until I found out I was the first one to be left out. Walked to Arzua and found a room for myself in a pension. Robert and his dad convinced me to go tomorrow to Monte De Gunzar (35 km). At 9:30 pm I realized I left my fleece jacket at Casanuva. Luckily, after a chat with the hospitaller in the municipal albergue, the jacket was found and sent to near Monte De Gunzar

7/8
Started walking at 7 am with Robert and his dad (The earliest they started yet). Met Lucas, Nadia and Rut just out of the first city. We all sat on a tree trunk and had lunch and lots of laughs. Walked on till Monte De Gunzar (only 5 km from Santiago) and found a bed to sleep (there are 500 beds, but a few hours later they were all occupied!). Made dinner with Nikko, Robert, Stefan, Rut and Sebastian. Went to get my jacket only to find out it’s almost half way to Santiago. In the evening we went to the viewing point on Santiago and the cathedral. It was strange seeing the cathedral and not going there straight away.

8/8 (part 2)
After staring at the Cathedral, hugging and crying with everybody I went to get my "Compastela". A certificate saying I made a pilgrimage to Santiago. The whole thing was very anti climax. Got a room in a nice pension and went to see the city. Santiago is a great place. So beautiful. I went to the pilgrims mass in the cathedral. There was so much energy in that place it was amazing. The cathedral itself is even prettier inside than out. The altar is really 3D with a place for people to hug Santiago’s statue and see his grave. Met lots of people from the way all day. We had a group picture near the cathedral. Some of us went to drink. I had loads of red wine, a beer and something French with anise. All this while listening to a group of traditional Spanish guitars or a punk/rock club. At the end I lost my dinner. Twice.

9/8
I was still hung over from the day before so I slept most of the day. Wandered around the city for a while until 18:45. I herd that each day; the first 10 pilgrims who show up at the garage of the hotel near the cathedral get a free breakfast/lunch/dinner. It was only 15 minutes to dinner, but I said I’ll give it a chance. I was pilgrim number 10. A security guard took us through the hotel to a room in the back with 10 places, Camino maps and a guest book. Then he took us to the kitchen to take our dinner, stake, vegetables, fruits, tuna pie, and of Corse, water and wine. At the dinner I saw Bruno again, an Italian guy I haven’t seen since Puenta la Riana (almost a month ago). Apparently he was just back from Finisterra and Muxía.
The dinner was great!

10/8
Started walking only at 9:30. It’s only 22 km anyway. Got lost a bit in the beginning, But after a while found the way again. The road was almost empty, very nice after the tourist way the last 100 km. Met two Korean sisters who are afraid of dogs (a problem in Galicia, since everyone has at least one dog). Made it to Negrerria. Saw Lucas and Bridget over there having dinner with a guy from Barcelona named Jurdi. Also Yohan (which I had dinner with). Did lots of laundry only to find out it's raining...

11/8
It was raining all day, with lots of wind. Apparently that’s a typical Galician summer. I felt like a real pilgrim that day, walking alone in the middle of a storm with only some cars passing by thinking "what is that crazy guy doing outside?” walked most of the day with Jurdi, Lucas and Bridget. Saw for the first time some Olympic games (Judo). The last 2 km were horrible. My boots gave in to the weather in my socks got soaked. I could hear them going *squash* every step I took. When I finally reached the albergue, I squeezed out at least half a glass of water from my socks. Of course my laundry was still wet from yesterday. Had a slow dinner with the guys and decided I’m going to Muxía tomorrow while the others are going striate to Finisterre.

12/8
The road was the emptiest I ever had on the Camino. It was also very wild. Plants covering the road everywhere. It was windy, but no rain. The trees made a strange sound. Then I saw what was so strange about it. It was the ocean! I was so happy to see the ocean I bounced half the way down. The albergue was new and quiet empty. Went to the city and the beach. The waves just crashed into the rocks. You really get a good feeling of the power of the ocean.

13/8

Woke up with mixed feelings. This is the last day of walking. The road was beautiful along the beach. Getting in and out of the forest to see the ocean. The highlight of the road was crossing a small shallow river by foot since there is no bridge. Got to the city of Finisterre. Met Julia and Juana, a nice circle was closed since they were the first people I walked with a long time. They took me to a privet hippie albergue called Casa Miguel. A really nice place. We walked the extra 3 km to the cape together. I made it. I was at the end of the world. I’m glad I decided to go here last, this place felt like the end of my journey too. We had a little ceremony on the cape. We burned some close, supposedly because they smell from all this time (I burned a pair of underwear which had better moments). I emptied a jar of honey I was carrying from St Jean pied de port (!) in my backpack to the ocean. And last but not least. I screamed like a maniac. It’s the end.
When we got back to the albergue we started cooking dinner. I finally met Jonathan, the Israeli guy I new was in front of me. It was so nice to speak Hebrew with someone after so long.
After that we went to the beach and had a cold short night deep in the ocean. Got worm near a fire witch the pilgrims who slept on the beach lit. I was very calming singing and playing the guitar.

And that’s it.
I’m now in Santiago (got here by bus), going to Barcelona for a few days and then back home.

40 days, 900 km, and unforgettable experiences,
Buen Finito.