30/7
Started walking and soon got to a ruin village with only one standing building, the albergue. Apparently, the guy running the place is a Templar Knight. Walked down the mountain, enjoying each step. The view was AMAZING. I couldn´t believe it got prettier each step I took. In the end got to a small city called Ponferada. There was a Templar castle over there, very impressing on the outside. Not so on the inside. There was a group of deaf people playing Taki (or Uno) in the albergue. It was very funny to watch. They taught me how to say "Buenos dias" in sign language (and if you don't know what "Buenos dias" means, go look it up). Had macaroni for dinner with P&P and went to sleep.
31/7
I was woken up at 6 am by the hosts who turn on the light. It was the first time on the Camino I felt someone was kicking me out. Most of the day was walking straight, near vineyards and wheat fields. It's funny. It is though someone has taken the road from St. Jean pied the port to Astorga and squeezed it into 3 days. Got to a nice place between the hills named Villa Franca del Biezro. Went to a nice distant archeological albergue. After it being gray all day it finally started to rain. Heavily.
Walked 606 km, only 176 km to go...
Buen Camino!
new pics!
31 ביולי 2008
29 ביולי 2008
Foncebadon
25/7 (part 2)
So, apparently there´s a medieval festival Saturday-Sunday. I made dinner with some German people (soup, rice and some fried vegetables) and as we started eating on the patio, a gazillion people showed up with sausages, bread, drinks and fine wine. They organized a fiesta for all the albergue in honor of Santiago´s day. We ate and drank and I finally felt like I was in Spain :). I went out for a beer with Pedro and Petro (P&P) and we came back to the albergue just as a few people finished singing a song from each country they came from. There was a guitar, so I was asked to do a few songs in Hebrew. After trying to remember the chords for any song I did "Kohavim al esh ktana" and "Parparim levanim". We went to bed when people were celebrating outside till 4am...
26/7 20 km
Got up and had breakfast (P&P brought me a banana and a Spanish girl named Elsa gave me a small yogurt). Started walking with a really nice Canadian teacher named James. Cough up with P&P near Leon. Went to an albergue opened 24h and went out to see Leon. The center of the city is filled with medieval buildings. The cathedral is very pretty on the outside, but not like the one in Burgos. On the other hand, the inside is magnificent! I have never seen so much stained glass in my life. During the few hours I spent in the area, there were at least 6 weddings in the cathedral, just one after the other. I was sick and tired of Pocadillas (Spanish sandwich) for lunch, so I had a Shawarma at some Turkish/Pakistan place. It turned out to be a BAD idea. I met P&P for beer and tapatos later (I only had a coke to straight out my stomach). Sat with James and an Irish man named Tary for another coke and some flun. They had to run to their albergue which closes at 21:30, and I stayed and got lost in this wonderful city. Saw the cathedral lead at night(23:00 before it´s still too bright) and went to sleep.
27/7 26.1 km
The road was pretty ugly today. Most of it near the highway. Got lost a bit on the way, but manage to find my way to San Martin del Camino. Got to an alburgue without any hosts. Met P&P and had lunch, a siesta and went to see the village. We were only 8 people in the albegue, probably the rest stayed in the newer ones a few hundred meters back. Had sore feet especially on the cushions. The kilometers are starting to show.
It rained just for a bit. Luckily, my laundry was dry :)
28/7 22.8 km
Woke up and started getting organized. Just before I left the host showed up and wanted 3 Euro from me and the other guy who didn´t leave yet. The view was different today, I´m back to the mountains and forests. Got to a small city named Astorga. There´s a nice small cathedral, a nice Gudi palace, and old walls you can walk on. Went to a physiotherapist to check my legs. He gave me a foot massage and put some hot clay on my feet. I felt like hundreds of kilometers went off my feet. Had trout for dinner (the local fish). Funny thing, they only clean it from scales, the inside organs are kept and cooked with the fish.
29/7 26.3 km
The way was magnificent! Lots of hills trees and purple flowers. I´m back to that amazing landscape. I´m in a very small village on top of a mountain 1500m high (climbed 500m)
Walked 555 km, only 227 more.
Buen Camino!
So, apparently there´s a medieval festival Saturday-Sunday. I made dinner with some German people (soup, rice and some fried vegetables) and as we started eating on the patio, a gazillion people showed up with sausages, bread, drinks and fine wine. They organized a fiesta for all the albergue in honor of Santiago´s day. We ate and drank and I finally felt like I was in Spain :). I went out for a beer with Pedro and Petro (P&P) and we came back to the albergue just as a few people finished singing a song from each country they came from. There was a guitar, so I was asked to do a few songs in Hebrew. After trying to remember the chords for any song I did "Kohavim al esh ktana" and "Parparim levanim". We went to bed when people were celebrating outside till 4am...
26/7 20 km
Got up and had breakfast (P&P brought me a banana and a Spanish girl named Elsa gave me a small yogurt). Started walking with a really nice Canadian teacher named James. Cough up with P&P near Leon. Went to an albergue opened 24h and went out to see Leon. The center of the city is filled with medieval buildings. The cathedral is very pretty on the outside, but not like the one in Burgos. On the other hand, the inside is magnificent! I have never seen so much stained glass in my life. During the few hours I spent in the area, there were at least 6 weddings in the cathedral, just one after the other. I was sick and tired of Pocadillas (Spanish sandwich) for lunch, so I had a Shawarma at some Turkish/Pakistan place. It turned out to be a BAD idea. I met P&P for beer and tapatos later (I only had a coke to straight out my stomach). Sat with James and an Irish man named Tary for another coke and some flun. They had to run to their albergue which closes at 21:30, and I stayed and got lost in this wonderful city. Saw the cathedral lead at night(23:00 before it´s still too bright) and went to sleep.
27/7 26.1 km
The road was pretty ugly today. Most of it near the highway. Got lost a bit on the way, but manage to find my way to San Martin del Camino. Got to an alburgue without any hosts. Met P&P and had lunch, a siesta and went to see the village. We were only 8 people in the albegue, probably the rest stayed in the newer ones a few hundred meters back. Had sore feet especially on the cushions. The kilometers are starting to show.
It rained just for a bit. Luckily, my laundry was dry :)
28/7 22.8 km
Woke up and started getting organized. Just before I left the host showed up and wanted 3 Euro from me and the other guy who didn´t leave yet. The view was different today, I´m back to the mountains and forests. Got to a small city named Astorga. There´s a nice small cathedral, a nice Gudi palace, and old walls you can walk on. Went to a physiotherapist to check my legs. He gave me a foot massage and put some hot clay on my feet. I felt like hundreds of kilometers went off my feet. Had trout for dinner (the local fish). Funny thing, they only clean it from scales, the inside organs are kept and cooked with the fish.
29/7 26.3 km
The way was magnificent! Lots of hills trees and purple flowers. I´m back to that amazing landscape. I´m in a very small village on top of a mountain 1500m high (climbed 500m)
Walked 555 km, only 227 more.
Buen Camino!
24 ביולי 2008
Mansilla de las Mulas
22/7
I´ve walked mainly in endless fields of white. There was a small part of sunflowers that was a refreshing change. I´ve started walking near a water channel. I stopped at Villovieco and went to a church there. A guy named Pepe showed me the place and tried to explain some things in Spanish. Later he invited me to coffee at his place and I had some fruits, nuts and bisects too. It´s amazing the hospitality pilgrims get here. He showed me his house and all the things he made there. The place was just beautiful. I made it to Corrión and slept in am old school run by nuns. The place was OK. I met Aleix again (it´s pronounced A-le-ysh) and made "Ptitim" in a microwave with him. I tried to sleep that night, but 4 guys had a snoring contest, so I took my sleeping bag and a blanket and slept outside in the school yard on a bench. I also didn´t find my flashlight in the morning, but the only time I needed it was to find the flashlight.
23/7
Most of the day was just a long straits walk (17.2 km) in endless fields of wheat without any shade. And it was hot. The last 200m were downhill, and suddenly you see a small village with millions of sunflowers. I had a non alcoholic beer at the bar. The bartender asked me if I was Arabic, I said I'm from Israel. Apparently I look Arabic. The bartender was from Morocco. He was very nice, but we talked about politics and then I decided it bums me down, so I left. I had a bit of a nose bleed for some time now, but it seemed to stop at the bar. The rest of the way was without any shadow, but we saw they were planting trees near the road. They really put a lot of effort in the Camino. We got to Ledigos, and I was thinking of going on to the next town (3 km) but I had difficulties calculating the distance, so I stayed. After a shower and laundry, I sat with Ruth, a 28 old Catholic nurse, and Aleix for lunch. Suddenly, from a hot day it became cloudy and it started to rain (but light rain). I had a siesta, went online to post some pictures and made dinner with Roth (Beans from a can and some pasta with cheese and apple). I had a very good night's sleep.
24/7
Crossed another county. Not too much scenery, most of the way near a road. Visited a small church in Sahgún and went on to Barcianos del Camino. I met two nice guys from Barcelona, Petro and Pedro. They shared with me their lunch, green bean salad and a peach. Really nice guys. Had a siesta (a really brilliant invention) and woke up to the sound of some nuns playing on a guitar and a flute singing some praises to the lord or something. I helped making dinner for the albergue (41 people eating together). Everyone left for mass and I was alone in the albergue with only a few people making dinner. The dinner was great (salad, pasta, and melon for desert). Afterwards there was the Pilgrims blessing. I went to see out of curiosity, just see and not participate. It was more religious than I expected. Petro saw that I was feeling uncomfortable and helped me out without getting blessed by the preacher. I felt really bad afterwards. Like I did something very wrong. I´m not going to any more ceremonies.
25/7
I slept with new ear plugs I bought that morning. They were very good. Too good. Woke up only at 7:05. Had a good breakfast at the kitchen (coffee, bread, jam and biscuits) and started walking at about 8. I cough up with a German woman named Ortrut who I saw in the albergues the last two days. We had a really nice chat and walked almost 15 km without a break. We got to a small town with a really nice bar. It had 50´s and 60´s rock´n'roll songs. Mom would have loved the place. Had a totilla for lunch (an omelet with potatoes in it) and went on to Mansilla de las Mulas. The place looks very decorative, maybe theirs a Fiesta for Santiago´s day (today!).
Did some calculations. And I´ll probably reach Santiago at 08/08/08.
I also walked 444 km till now. Only 320 km more.
New pictures!
Buen camino!
I´ve walked mainly in endless fields of white. There was a small part of sunflowers that was a refreshing change. I´ve started walking near a water channel. I stopped at Villovieco and went to a church there. A guy named Pepe showed me the place and tried to explain some things in Spanish. Later he invited me to coffee at his place and I had some fruits, nuts and bisects too. It´s amazing the hospitality pilgrims get here. He showed me his house and all the things he made there. The place was just beautiful. I made it to Corrión and slept in am old school run by nuns. The place was OK. I met Aleix again (it´s pronounced A-le-ysh) and made "Ptitim" in a microwave with him. I tried to sleep that night, but 4 guys had a snoring contest, so I took my sleeping bag and a blanket and slept outside in the school yard on a bench. I also didn´t find my flashlight in the morning, but the only time I needed it was to find the flashlight.
23/7
Most of the day was just a long straits walk (17.2 km) in endless fields of wheat without any shade. And it was hot. The last 200m were downhill, and suddenly you see a small village with millions of sunflowers. I had a non alcoholic beer at the bar. The bartender asked me if I was Arabic, I said I'm from Israel. Apparently I look Arabic. The bartender was from Morocco. He was very nice, but we talked about politics and then I decided it bums me down, so I left. I had a bit of a nose bleed for some time now, but it seemed to stop at the bar. The rest of the way was without any shadow, but we saw they were planting trees near the road. They really put a lot of effort in the Camino. We got to Ledigos, and I was thinking of going on to the next town (3 km) but I had difficulties calculating the distance, so I stayed. After a shower and laundry, I sat with Ruth, a 28 old Catholic nurse, and Aleix for lunch. Suddenly, from a hot day it became cloudy and it started to rain (but light rain). I had a siesta, went online to post some pictures and made dinner with Roth (Beans from a can and some pasta with cheese and apple). I had a very good night's sleep.
24/7
Crossed another county. Not too much scenery, most of the way near a road. Visited a small church in Sahgún and went on to Barcianos del Camino. I met two nice guys from Barcelona, Petro and Pedro. They shared with me their lunch, green bean salad and a peach. Really nice guys. Had a siesta (a really brilliant invention) and woke up to the sound of some nuns playing on a guitar and a flute singing some praises to the lord or something. I helped making dinner for the albergue (41 people eating together). Everyone left for mass and I was alone in the albergue with only a few people making dinner. The dinner was great (salad, pasta, and melon for desert). Afterwards there was the Pilgrims blessing. I went to see out of curiosity, just see and not participate. It was more religious than I expected. Petro saw that I was feeling uncomfortable and helped me out without getting blessed by the preacher. I felt really bad afterwards. Like I did something very wrong. I´m not going to any more ceremonies.
25/7
I slept with new ear plugs I bought that morning. They were very good. Too good. Woke up only at 7:05. Had a good breakfast at the kitchen (coffee, bread, jam and biscuits) and started walking at about 8. I cough up with a German woman named Ortrut who I saw in the albergues the last two days. We had a really nice chat and walked almost 15 km without a break. We got to a small town with a really nice bar. It had 50´s and 60´s rock´n'roll songs. Mom would have loved the place. Had a totilla for lunch (an omelet with potatoes in it) and went on to Mansilla de las Mulas. The place looks very decorative, maybe theirs a Fiesta for Santiago´s day (today!).
Did some calculations. And I´ll probably reach Santiago at 08/08/08.
I also walked 444 km till now. Only 320 km more.
New pictures!
Buen camino!
23 ביולי 2008
21 ביולי 2008
San Anton
16/7 27 km
Left Azofra and started climbing. Reached Santo de Mingo de la Calzada an old medieval city filled with convents. Went on till I got to Grañon. Decided to go on some more and met a nice Italian couple, Nadia and Davido. Walked with them till Redicilla del Camino, entering the third county of the Camino. There we went to an alberge which you give a donation as your choice to stay there. The Italian couple met with the rest of the group they were walking with, people they met on the way. Had a nice dinner and went to sleep.
17/7 24 km
Woke up and started walking with the group. There was a church built inside a mountain in Tosantos. We wanted to get inside, but the road was blocked due to rock slides. Went on to Vilafranca-Mortes de Oca. Saw Ares again, 28 year old picture arranger from Barcelona. Bout some cheese. Had dinner with the group and Ares, headed up making "Ptitim" (does anybody know the name in English?) which they LOVED :) Davido had a bad knee, so he and Nadia decided they're going to Burgos to see a doctor.
18/7 40 km
Started walking alone. Met two German girls from before. We were all impressed to see the sun rise for the first time since we started the Camino (at about 7am, till then it was too cloudy). Had a nice change in the view, from vineyards to pine tree forest. Ate some cheese and choriso with Ares and continued walking to Cardeñuela-Riopio. It was hot as hell. As I got there, I found out there was no alburge. The group were also there with the same problem. We ate and had a siesta at a bar nearby and continued another 15 km to Burgos. Walked mainly in the city and industrial areas. As we reached the cathedral, two Spanish guys from the group said they knew a short cut to the alberge. It took us almost an hour. We met Nadia and Davido who had to rest for a few days, and if that doesn't work, an operation. Went straight to bed.
19/7 11 km
Had a rest day. Went with Nadia, Davido and Frank, a German cargo ship captain to see the cathedral (only 10 minutes from the alberge). It was beautiful. They all left for León (about 200 km ahead) because they're short on time and the next part should be a bit boring. I walked a bit to Rabé de las Calzadas to a privet alberge. Apparently the owners, Michel and Santiago, are VERY in to the Camino. He marks the way with the famous yellow arrows, and she is part of the Camino comity. They had a huge room filled with Camino maps and books and maps and books and shells and anything linked to the Camino I was almost alone in that place until an Italian guy came. Michel treated my blisters and made us a great dinner. We went to bed early and had a room of 8 all to ourselves. Luckily the Italian guy didn't snore :)
20/7 25 km
I was thinking of going to San Anton. Michel said it's not a good place because there are no facilities. Piero, the Italian guy, said it's his second Camino, and that he met a guy my age who slept there had a great time. I walked to San Anton, and although I had enough energy to the next 3 km to the city, I've decided to stay and sleep at the ruins of the 16th century church. There were no hot water. The bathroom kitchen and beds were all in the ruins under a wooden roof. But the place was simply magical! We were only 5 pilgrims that night with one Mexican volunteer and it was the greatest place I've been so far. The atmosphere was just amazing. I can't describe it in words. I hope some pictures I'll send soon could do that.
21/7 23 km
Woke up late (7:30) had breakfast with those wonderful people, and started walking. I don't understand why they say this part is boring. There are endless fields of wheat. And once you climb to a high point, it's just breathtaking. Walked with a nice catholic nurse named Ruth (28). On the way there were two volunteered refreshing parts. Got to an alberge with a pool at Boa Dilla del Camino. quiet a different relaxation from the last night
Walked 344 km. Only 420 to go.
Buen Camino
Left Azofra and started climbing. Reached Santo de Mingo de la Calzada an old medieval city filled with convents. Went on till I got to Grañon. Decided to go on some more and met a nice Italian couple, Nadia and Davido. Walked with them till Redicilla del Camino, entering the third county of the Camino. There we went to an alberge which you give a donation as your choice to stay there. The Italian couple met with the rest of the group they were walking with, people they met on the way. Had a nice dinner and went to sleep.
17/7 24 km
Woke up and started walking with the group. There was a church built inside a mountain in Tosantos. We wanted to get inside, but the road was blocked due to rock slides. Went on to Vilafranca-Mortes de Oca. Saw Ares again, 28 year old picture arranger from Barcelona. Bout some cheese. Had dinner with the group and Ares, headed up making "Ptitim" (does anybody know the name in English?) which they LOVED :) Davido had a bad knee, so he and Nadia decided they're going to Burgos to see a doctor.
18/7 40 km
Started walking alone. Met two German girls from before. We were all impressed to see the sun rise for the first time since we started the Camino (at about 7am, till then it was too cloudy). Had a nice change in the view, from vineyards to pine tree forest. Ate some cheese and choriso with Ares and continued walking to Cardeñuela-Riopio. It was hot as hell. As I got there, I found out there was no alburge. The group were also there with the same problem. We ate and had a siesta at a bar nearby and continued another 15 km to Burgos. Walked mainly in the city and industrial areas. As we reached the cathedral, two Spanish guys from the group said they knew a short cut to the alberge. It took us almost an hour. We met Nadia and Davido who had to rest for a few days, and if that doesn't work, an operation. Went straight to bed.
19/7 11 km
Had a rest day. Went with Nadia, Davido and Frank, a German cargo ship captain to see the cathedral (only 10 minutes from the alberge). It was beautiful. They all left for León (about 200 km ahead) because they're short on time and the next part should be a bit boring. I walked a bit to Rabé de las Calzadas to a privet alberge. Apparently the owners, Michel and Santiago, are VERY in to the Camino. He marks the way with the famous yellow arrows, and she is part of the Camino comity. They had a huge room filled with Camino maps and books and maps and books and shells and anything linked to the Camino I was almost alone in that place until an Italian guy came. Michel treated my blisters and made us a great dinner. We went to bed early and had a room of 8 all to ourselves. Luckily the Italian guy didn't snore :)
20/7 25 km
21/7 23 km
Woke up late (7:30) had breakfast with those wonderful people, and started walking. I don't understand why they say this part is boring. There are endless fields of wheat. And once you climb to a high point, it's just breathtaking. Walked with a nice catholic nurse named Ruth (28). On the way there were two volunteered refreshing parts. Got to an alberge with a pool at Boa Dilla del Camino. quiet a different relaxation from the last night
Walked 344 km. Only 420 to go.
Buen Camino
15 ביולי 2008
Azofra
14/7 19.5 km
Started walking to Loñro. Another big city. Had a really nice old place in it. Got to Nevereta at about 13:30, the albergus opened only at 14:30. Talked to some people on the Camino to pass the time. Went to a church while it was empty. REALLY creepy. It´s all dark with creaking wooden floor and martyrs statues looking at you from everywhere. Those churches are HUGE with HUGE golden alters at the end. Very different from back home. Give you the feeling of "FEAR ME, GOD O MIGHTY!". Much less inviting than the synagogue back home. Took a few pictures inside, upload them when I can.
Had quite a lot to drink at dinner. A third of a bottle of wine, made me sleep well enough altho the snoring :)
15/7 22 km
Started walking early with everyone because we had to get out before 8. Half of the road was near a highway so it wasn´t very nice, but I took a detour that added only 0.5 km and ate breakfast at a place called Ventos. I´ve seen a snake on the road after a while, green with a black stripe on its back. Almost hit it with my walking sticks, but it hid in the bushes.
Met two seminarestic catholic priests from the US on the way. They were nice, but it did feel a bit weird.
After passing Najera, I came to Azofra, a small town with a really great alberguse. Only 2 people in a room (rather than 12 or more I got used to) and a nice small pool for relaxing your feet. That was the best thing I had in days. Met the American family again. Really nice people, they hooked me up with a few guys:
Jan-Klod - a 61 year old Canadian from Quebec. A good cook, real smart guy, and very funny. He's like the dad of the group.
Marcos - 20 year old German, a really nice guy that offered me to join their little group.
Andre - 24 year old Austrian. Likes to drink, also going to study electronic engineering, usually a vegetarian (but not on the Camino)
Together we had a drink, bought some food, ate dinner (rice salad and beans with meat) and had a lot of laughs and discussions about life.
I´m having breakfast with them tomorrow, and maybe walk with them for a while.
In my room, there´s an old French dude who snores like a construction site. Probably a good time to mention I bought ear plugs for nights like these, only I seem to always wake up in the middle of the night with them in my hands :)
I hope I drank enough today to fall asleep anyway like yesterday :)
I hope he doesn´t snore too loud. God, please don´t make him snore too loud.
Did 198 km, only 566 to go :)
Started walking to Loñro. Another big city. Had a really nice old place in it. Got to Nevereta at about 13:30, the albergus opened only at 14:30. Talked to some people on the Camino to pass the time. Went to a church while it was empty. REALLY creepy. It´s all dark with creaking wooden floor and martyrs statues looking at you from everywhere. Those churches are HUGE with HUGE golden alters at the end. Very different from back home. Give you the feeling of "FEAR ME, GOD O MIGHTY!". Much less inviting than the synagogue back home. Took a few pictures inside, upload them when I can.
Had quite a lot to drink at dinner. A third of a bottle of wine, made me sleep well enough altho the snoring :)
15/7 22 km
Started walking early with everyone because we had to get out before 8. Half of the road was near a highway so it wasn´t very nice, but I took a detour that added only 0.5 km and ate breakfast at a place called Ventos. I´ve seen a snake on the road after a while, green with a black stripe on its back. Almost hit it with my walking sticks, but it hid in the bushes.
Met two seminarestic catholic priests from the US on the way. They were nice, but it did feel a bit weird.
After passing Najera, I came to Azofra, a small town with a really great alberguse. Only 2 people in a room (rather than 12 or more I got used to) and a nice small pool for relaxing your feet. That was the best thing I had in days. Met the American family again. Really nice people, they hooked me up with a few guys:
Jan-Klod - a 61 year old Canadian from Quebec. A good cook, real smart guy, and very funny. He's like the dad of the group.
Marcos - 20 year old German, a really nice guy that offered me to join their little group.
Andre - 24 year old Austrian. Likes to drink, also going to study electronic engineering, usually a vegetarian (but not on the Camino)
Together we had a drink, bought some food, ate dinner (rice salad and beans with meat) and had a lot of laughs and discussions about life.
I´m having breakfast with them tomorrow, and maybe walk with them for a while.
In my room, there´s an old French dude who snores like a construction site. Probably a good time to mention I bought ear plugs for nights like these, only I seem to always wake up in the middle of the night with them in my hands :)
I hope I drank enough today to fall asleep anyway like yesterday :)
I hope he doesn´t snore too loud. God, please don´t make him snore too loud.
Did 198 km, only 566 to go :)
13 ביולי 2008
Viana
After an hour and a half, got to Sonor which is 6.9 km from Los Acros. Till that point it was a nice cool day, but my luck had ended. It started raining...
Got to Viana at 12 and it became sunny again. My watch said I can make it to the next alberges 9 km away. But my feet said no. So I went to the alberges and slept for a few hours.
The city is beautiful, it´s like it was build inside a castle. There's a beautiful church here (pictures!) and it´s even prettier from inside. It´s all painted in gold!
So, I´ve walked 147 km, only 609 to go...
Buen camino!
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